Sapphire Coast Branch Ulysses Inc

Far South Coast of NSW

RIDE REPORTS

Alan and Johns Excellent Adventure - part one

 

Explore Indochina certainly put on some great motor cycling trips in Asia. Our trip was an eight day ride from Hanoi to the North West mountainous region of Vietnam near the Laotian and Chinese Borders. The town of Sapa was the primary destination because it is considered the main town of the ethnic minority hill people of Vietnam.

 

Our meeting point and Hotel in Hanoi was the Classic. A nice old style motel ion the old quarter a short walk to the beautiful land mark Hia Han Lake. Our hotel was near a busy intersection, and right on the intersection was a couple of cafes selling cold draft beer from a stainless steel keg for 3000 dong a glass (that’s about 20cents!). It was most entertaining sitting on this intersection with beer in hand watching the myriad of traffic and people passing by. Push bikes, motor bikes, rickshaws, cars, trucks and pedestrians. Across the road was one of the many DVD shops in Hanoi selling DVDs and CDs. All the latest movies for about a dollar a pop!

 

There were three riders from Australia. Me, John and his son Nat. We met the others Courtney and Kelly two Americans from Oregon. Our local tour guide was Truan and our Mechanic/Sweeper was Hai.  Now we had to go across the city to “meet” the bikes and pick up our gear. Travel Indochina provided good quality helmets, armoured jackets and wet weather gear. We opted to take our own gloves and boots.

 

The bikes were pretty incredible. 1980s Russian Minsks painted in military colours and insignia. They were 125cc Two strokes and therefore noisy and smoky. This is not considered a small bike in Vietnam, where there are literally millions of physically smaller 120cc Hondas and clones.

 

We had an early morning start to leaving the city. Already lots of traffic were on the dusty roads. The bikes had kick-starters, and having no battery, the lights all went out when you were idling, say at traffic lights. (Which seemed few and far between!).

At first riding was pretty chaotic but we managed to stay together and made it to the outskirts of the city in about an hour and a half.

 

As anyone who has ridden bikes in Asia knows there is a pecking order of vehicle precedence. Trucks are at the top and bikes are at the bottom. On some of the narrow roads, even though there may be room for a truck and a bike together on the bitumen, it was not uncommon for an on coming truck to take up all the road forcing the bike on to the dirt. Amazingly the Minsk handled this well. It was also not uncommon to encounter on a twisty, climbing, single lane road, one mega slow truck trying to overtake another. Totally

 

 

blind bends with nowhere for a passing, or on coming bike to go. We were told to use plenty of horn. It was not considered rude, it was herely a warning… here I am. Good advice.

 

Our first stop was the Cuc Phuong National Park. Vietnam’s first. There we saw a very interesting primate rehabilitation centre. Until recently it seemed that the attitude to fauna in Vietnam was: if it moves eat it! So it was pleasing to see these critically endangered animals being rescued, Hope it’s not a case of too little too late.

 

Initially the roads weren’t too bad, you just needed to be extra vigilant because you could never envisage what was on the road around the next bend. We encountered lots of animal hazards on the roads: Buffalo, pigs, chooks, ducks, dogs, goats and of course, people. The bikes, being loud and smoky could be predicted coming by the kids, as they would run out from their houses and wave shouting Xin Chao, Xin Chao. (Vietnamese for hello) This was so delightful.

 

Our first big challenge was a long, winding, pontoon bridge stretching 150 metres across a fast flowing river. We had to ride down a steep rocky track and on to the bamboo pontoons. There were many pontoons strapped together which swayed and bounced, so one had to stare straight ahead and keep up constant revs, and keep the front wheel straight and firm. It was a little disconcerting, having crossed the bridge, when I heard Truan joking that there was a modern bridge a few kms up the road, but it wouldn’t be as much fun as this one!

 

Second night we stayed in a very pretty stilt house in a tribal village called Mai Chau.

The food we had on the trip was very good. Our guides would organise a banquet of maybe 10 different dishes. You could always find something really nice no matter what your taste. Breakfast was usually Fresh bread rolls, eggs, and the Vietnamese noodle soup known as Pho. Lunch was often a picnic on the roadside. Traun always had a delicious spread of cold meats, cheese, salad and rolls.

 

Now we hit some really rough roads. At first it was a surface made of lots of stones, but the Minsks handled it well, Then we stuck rutted tracks, puddles, deep holes and mud. The scenery was magnificent, but concentration on the track was paramount. It took us 4 hours to cover only 40km on this road. It was dark before we reached our destination of Nghia Lo. A very flash hotel in a rather primitive village.

 

We are now starting to climb through some massive mountains. Land slides were a part of the scenery. We crossed some valleys, which might only be 10 kms as the crow flies, but 80kms as the road followed the contours. Scenery was spectacular with immaculately prepared rice paddy terracing, there are over 50 different ethnic groups in Vietnam and it was fascinating to see the costumes of the different groups as we climbed from one valley to the next.

PART TWO - soon -  WILL ALSO HAVE PHOTOS

National AGM, Townsville, 26 May to 1 June 2008                         

 

A disparate bunch of Sapphire Coast members made their way up to the National AGM in Townsville. Esko P. on his Harley meandered up via Brisbane as did Eddie and Valerie D. in their campervan. Peter M. on his Suzuki wee-Strom met up with some of his forum mates and took nearly 2 weeks to get there, and Gail and I traveled via the Great Inland Way, setting out later than everyone else, on our wee-Strom.

 

Of course none of us traveled alone. How could we with over 3700 Ulysseans headed for the same destination. In fact the roadhouse at Belyando Crossing ran out of petrol for 18 hours because of the number of bikes passing through. They had never sold so much petrol in just a few days. Being located half way along a 370km stretch of the Gregory Developmental Road between Clermont and Charters Towers, and being the only source of fuel, many riders, me included, had calculated on refueling there. Gail and I had actually pre-booked one of their motel rooms for the night, but some others had an unscheduled night under the stars, though it was a very sociable evening sitting at a huge round table in front of the roadhouse, eating great food and sinking beer and red wine in the company of other bikers, truck drivers and the roadhouse proprietor, Hog.  For me, the best part of the annual AGM is the ride there and back, which is why Gail and I favour the ones located a good distance from home. Evenings like that one at Belyando Crossing are what make a trip memorable.

 

The AGM event itself was much the same as usual. All the main motorcycle brands had their demo fleets there for members to sample. There was a 10km test route, and groups of bikes set out at regular intervals each with a shepherd at the front and a sweeper at the back, in a vain attempt to prevent riders getting lost or having a fang. The bikes that received the most interest were the new American cruiser brand, Victory, and the three wheeled Can-Am Spyder.

 

Gail and I attended the dinners on the Friday and Saturday nights, and the food was very good considering they had to serve 2,500 people. Opinions on the bands that played were mixed, but that is inevitable with such a mix of people and musical tastes.

The only significant decisions to come out of the Extended National Committee meeting (attended by Eddie and myself) and the AGM proper, were that the outgoing national committee was re-elected unchanged

and the 2011 AGM will be at Newcastle. Dozens of minor, relatively inconsequential issues were raised and put to bed.

 

The “Grand Parade”, which I must admit Gail and I skipped when we chose to go for a ride instead, was apparently a flop, because the police escorts split it into groups of about 300 bikes which got interspersed with the other traffic and the concept of a parade was totally lost.

 

On the Sunday, Gail flew home by plane on a cut-price discount ticket we had pre-booked months before, and I headed for home on the bike. Well I sort-of headed for home! My route first took me north via the Daintree rainforest, Cape Tribulation, Karumba on the Gulf of Carpentaria, and then south via Mount Isa, and Bourke. The highlight was definitely the far north with its brolgas, brumbies, huge eagles, herds of Brahman cattle, flocks of migrating birds, waist high grassy  plains, and swollen rivers. Road surfaces were generally good, and apart from the grey nomads, the very sparce traffic, including roadtrains and the occasional police 4wd, traveled at speeds well in excess of the 110kph speed limits, even on the many stretches where only the central strip is sealed. Often it was a case of riding at 125kph + or getting pushed off the road by a chasing mining company 4wd and trailer or a 53m roadtrain. Going any slower meant getting off the bitumen to let the others go through, and I always got off the bitumen for roadtrains coming the other way. It must have been really dicey for the occasional bikes I saw towing big trailers. 800km days are easy. Most days I set out at about 7.00am, before the grey nomads emerged, and had covered over 300km before stopping for breakfast at 9.30.

I can’t wait for the AGM at Albany W.A. in 2010. That will be a great ride. Next year’s AGM at Penrith is too close to Bemboka for me!           JOHN DEAN

 

 

GO TASMANIA!

Don McKenzie on his Harley and me on my Honda ST1100 toured Tasmania over a period of nearly two weeks. Thought I’d tell you a little about it.

It was fairly easy to get our bikes on and off the ferry, and crew tied them down with straps attached to the handle bars which prevented them moving and being damaged during the trip.

On the way we took the by-ways around Penguin and saw some great coastline with plenty of old-English style cottages, then through Bernie and west to Stanley which seemed to be a popular tourist spot.

Back to Somerset and turned south through the Hellyer Gorge State Reserve where the road has more bends and steeper gradients than I’ve ever seen before. Wilderness everywhere down here! A great pub was the Bischoff at Waratah. The owners are Lew and Bev Rout who are keen Ulyssians and make you very welcome.

More bends and hills to Zeehan where we visited a great mining museum. Next was pleasant Strahan with all its waterways, and then to industrial Queenstown where the scars of mining are everywhere. The steep climb out of the town is quite interesting too. Fine sunny days all the way, lush green forests, glass-like lakes and swiftly flowing rivers made it a good ride.

Didn’t stay in Hobart, though we visited Cadbury’s Chocolate Factory and Cascade Brewery. (Cascade doesn’t shout as many beers as they used to!) We stayed in a pub further south beyond Huonville at a sleepy little village called Dover.  The most we paid at these great little pubs was $30 each per night, which included a good continental breakfast.

 

Then north along the east coast and to another fantastic pub at Tribunna (remember ‘try-a-banana’ the publican said). The east-coast scenery was good and the roads very quiet, but we encountered a couple of days of gusty-gale-like winds, which made things un- comfortable and difficult for a while.

Don’t think I’ve mentioned the food yet. I went for their seafood and found it just the best. Especially their Tasmanian Scallops which they cooked in a very thin batter and heaped on your plate.

We saw ‘The Pub in the Paddock’ at Pyengana that everyone talks about but didn’t stay there. Instead we enjoyed the good ride on to Scottsdale. Next day up to Bridport and on to George Town, beyond which Low Head is worth some time, with its maritime history.

Back across the Tasman Bridge and up to Greens Beach (which is just across the mouth of the Tamar River from Low Head). Some rugged coastline around here!

Then south through Launceston and on to Longford, to the Court House Hotel which is not to be missed if you have any interest in Tasmanian Motor Racing. The Court House is virtually a museum of Tassie Motor Racing photos, paper cuttings and memorabilia and even has a racing car in the bar!

Had a look at near-by Symmons Plains Motor Raceway where race-cars and bikes were practicing at what appeared to be some very brisk speeds.

We also did a day ride from Longford, through Poatina and up the Western Tiers mountain range and down between the lakes to Bothwell, then back up through Campbell. All very interesting country but painfully dry and in the grip of drought like on the mainland.

Afterwards, we went north-west to Deloraine and on to Sheffield which town features paintings on the sides of buildings and anywhere else that is available. An interesting town to visit, and complete with a great little Scottish restaurant.                             

We went through the railway museum at Don, and had a look around Devonport.

The best thing about the trip for me was the good sunny weather, probably because I’d been to Tassie on a previous holiday when it rained solid for all but one day of three weeks. This time we had just one day’s rain, - the day we visited Tahune Forest Reserve and walked the remarkable ‘skywalk’ - when the rain seemed to make the forest even better.

The bikes went well, with the Harley getting all the attention from a lot of on-lookers. ‘Looks like a cop’s bike’, was the best I got. My speedo clocked 3,621 Km. Bega to Bega, which is about 260 Km. per day average. Distances down there aren’t great and you can cover a lot of map very quickly. The road surfaces are excellent and, to my way of thinking, superior to New South Wales roads. Also the roads are well sign-posted and there are very few advertising signs along the roads to spoil things. Petrol seemed less expensive than when I filled up on the mainland.

I found all the towns to be neat and tidy and saw only one example of graffiti. Everyone we met was easy to talk to and friendly. Motorcyclists are welcome and most Tasmanians have heard of our Ulysses organisation. At every pub we stayed, we were offered under-cover and safe parking for our motorcycles. Enjoyed it all and came home thinking I must go back again before things change!                                        Cheers,

Ray Kearns 38076  

 

TOM AND ED ON AN ADVENTURE – as told by Tom Wheatley

How it started, ED and TOM 59 and 58 models had a build up of brownie points and are given time off for good behaviour. With no handbrakes to accompany them they select their mounts for their up coming trip, they have to be sure footed with plenty of pluck and stamina with a big set of balls, but they could not afford that so they settled on their SUZUKI’S – VSTROM 1000.

Day 1 -They left BEGA after work on Friday arvo. A four hour non eventful trip to CROOKWELL – now that’s serenity.

Day 2 -They head north to BATHURST thru the ABERCROMBIE RANGES, a lot of gravel but mostly black top and what great scenery. Heading north through SOFALA, RYLSTONE and DENMAN finding the biggest potholes and corrugation known to man. Now back on the black stuff with their trusty and now proven mounts, they cruise through the country side looking for that something special. They ride through MERRIWA, CASSILIS and the spot COOLAH. A small town with the pub close to the caravan park – how perfect is that. They set up camp, have a quick scrub and head to town for a counter tea and a couple of beers. Some mongrel then yells out ‘’last drinks’’ – Christ its 1am !!

Day 3 -They head to URALLA to stay with an old Bega mate who has built a house 50 metres from the Uralla Bowlo, so they head over. Five hours later after chips and peanuts for tea they head home for a bottle of red wine and toast. Shit its only day three, also the toast was off, both the bro’s were a bit seedy.

Day 4 -They head north to INVERALL and ASHFORD enjoying a cuppa and corned beef sandwich with cousin SHIRL. North to TEXAS and INGLEWOOD then west to GOONDAWINDI where they found a caravan park – you guessed it, near a pub.

 

Day 5 -They head west through TALWOOD to MUNGINDI where they ask for a short cut to LIGHTNING RIDGE – beaut!. Now heading down a black road the black stuff runs out, conferring with the navigator you guessed it instead of turning right to COLLERENERBRI they turned another right which took  40 klms of dust and dirt till they found the black stuff again. 120 klms later they were on track again to WALGETT and GARWIN WERE THEY FOUND THE Sheepyard Hotel. GARWIN is the roughest, dustiest dirtiest god forsaken place they had ever seen. They then head 70 klms to the RIDGE where they fond a caravan park – YOU KNOW THE ROUTINE. The RIDGE is a great place and they spend two nights there.

Day 7 -They ride south thru WALGETT and DUBBO to COWRA where they find a caravan park – same ole same ole.

Day 8 -They ride south through BOOROWA to CANBERRA and home to BEGA. The V STROMS were perfect for the 3150 klm trip – now that was BLOODY SERENITY.

P.S It was said unofficially that one BRO took eight pairs of undies and only used three and one team player was spotted wearing long johns? Was it true he swam in them in the thermal pool at the RIDGE  and was it true that one team member was spotted walking through the showers in PINK UNDIES ?.  Our next issue will be at THE GHOST TOWN RALLY – BROKEN HILL 2007

TOM - MEMBER # 35276

 

 


THE RETURN OF THE INTREPID TRAVELLERS

We arrived home safely after 2 months and 10,000 kilometers of traveling on our Triumph Trophy across Europe all the way to Romania. We traveled some of the Autobahns in Germany where the speed limit is 120 kph but minimum speed seems to be160 and the black Audis are incapable of doing less than 200. Went through Germany and Poland and into the Chez Republic, one of the highlights of which was the Church of Bones at the Unesco World Heritage town of Kutna Hora. The Ossuary church is decorated with the bones of approx. 40,000 people. Interesting! The bike went without a hitch through the pretty undulating scenery in Slovakia, and we had many stops at castles etc. In the historic town of Eger, Hungary we felt obliged to purchase some of their famous Bulls Blood red wine. This we obtained from a local crone who was selling the lethal brew in 2 litre water containers. John was non compos mentis after one glass. On to Romania (after ditching the Bulls Blood) where we found ourselves back 50 years in time. The bike (and us) was a never ending source of interest for the locals whose main mode of transport was horse and cart. Wonderful country, friendly people with amazing sights and scenery though somewhat lacking in sealed roads. Stopped by local police on pretense of checking our insurance papers but really just an excuse to look at the bike.Too many places to mention but some of the best riding was in Slovenia and Austria. The Alps between Italy and Austria were truly spectacular with many twists and turns and we encountered motorcyclists from all over Europe. Back to England where we had a few days to spare and to stop motorbike withdrawal symptoms we went off to Wales. Anyone contemplating a trip to the U.K should not overlook this gem, great riding roads, beautiful scenery; the only fault was the rain! Came home completely exhausted. Our house/animal sitters Bill & Helen (Ulysses members) cared for our home better than we do and a BIG thank you to everyone for making them so welcome. In fact, you made them so welcome we thought they were going to claim squatter’s rights!

Thought you might like some feedback on some club gear. We have just returned from a trip to England and across Europe to Romania, just over 10,000 klm, with temperatures ranging from cold to very hot. I had my usual allocation of one pannier and had to pack for approx 9 weeks travel. I took with me three of the Ulysses ladies Cool/Dry T/Shirts and they turned out to be some of the best travel gear I have so far taken with me on our trips. Light, cool and comfortable, they pack away to almost nothing. On reaching our destination at the end of each day, a quick shake and voila! No creases and a stylish top to wear out for the evening. They are also very quick drying so I could wash one at night and it would be dry by the following day. At $18 they are a bargain and I recommend them to any ladies with luggage space problems! 

Gail Dean.

 

 

REVIEWS BOOKS DVD ETC

 

Book review – Scooting Through by Ruth Bayne

When Gary, Bruce and I were manning the Ulysses stand at the Bega Shire Council’s “oldies week extravaganza” at the Merimbula Bowling Club back in 2005, I wandered over to the display by the NSW Far South Coast Fellowship of Australian Writers. One of their publications that caught my eye was a book called Scooting Through and on the back cover was a photo of a lady on an invalid scooter that made something click in my memory. Had I seen her somewhere?

The covernotes said Scooting Through relates the adventures of two ignorant girls, traveling from London to Calcutta by Lambretta scooter in 1959. They were naïve enough to cross through countries as uncharted as Turkey, Persia (now Iran) and Iraq on her Lambretta 125 scooter in an effort to reach Australia where she had the offer of a job as a nurse.

I was intrigued, particularly when one of the elderly ladies on the stand said that Ruth Bayne ended up in Bega, where she had died a couple of years before of MS, but not before putting her story on paper. I was damn sure that I had seen Ruth Bayne around Bega on her invalid scooter.

The copy on the stand was the personal autographed copy of the lady I was talking to, but I took the details. A Bega book shop promised to order a copy for me, but despite repeated reminders over nearly 3 months they were still blaming the publisher. Eventually I cracked and phoned Ginninderra Press in Canberra myself, to learn that they had no record of an order, but would be pleased to mail me a copy that day.

Ewan McGregor and Charlie Boorman, with their BMW GSs, sponsors, backup vehicles and satellite phones have nothing on this local woman who did it, two-up, on a 125cc scooter, on mainly dirt tracks, with virtually no knowledge of how an internal combustion engine even works, and she made it to Australia.

It is a great read, and still available from Ginninderra Press on 02 6258 9060, or I might even lend you mine, if you promise to treat it carefully and to return it. If you lose or damage it, I’ll accept your bike as reparation.       John Dean